上裝適體性研究

內(nèi)容概要

　　《上裝適體性研究》是作者在英國曼徹斯特大學(xué)攻讀博士學(xué)位期間研究工作的結(jié)晶，亦是作者多年在服裝工程領(lǐng)域教學(xué)與研究的經(jīng)驗(yàn)總結(jié)。主要研究服裝結(jié)構(gòu)對(duì)于服裝適體性和運(yùn)動(dòng)功能性的影響，并從結(jié)構(gòu)上解決或弱化造型與運(yùn)動(dòng)功能性的矛盾。《上裝適體性研究》由七章組成。第一章介紹研究背景和目的。第二章研究三維人體掃描方法在人體非標(biāo)準(zhǔn)姿勢(shì)測(cè)量中的應(yīng)用。第三章通過石膏法的應(yīng)用，獲得不同姿勢(shì)的人體原型，并精確測(cè)量人體尺寸。第四章以石膏法中所獲得的不同姿勢(shì)的原型為基礎(chǔ)，利用服裝軟件“COAT4.1”設(shè)計(jì)不同的放松量進(jìn)行紙樣制作，從而制作出實(shí)際的服裝。第五章設(shè)計(jì)并應(yīng)用壓力傳感器，測(cè)量當(dāng)人體處于不同姿勢(shì)時(shí)服裝與人體之間的壓力。第六章通過不同姿勢(shì)的人體尺寸調(diào)查，對(duì)適體成衣中的放松量效果進(jìn)行評(píng)價(jià)。第七章對(duì)全書進(jìn)行總結(jié)。

書籍目錄

1.Introduction1.1 Garment-Making Systems1.1.1 HauteCouture1.1.2 BlockPatterns1.1.3 PatternDrafting1.2 BackgroundtotheResearch1.3 ProposedSolution1.4 AimsandObjectives2.LiteratureReview2.1 AStudyoftheShoulderGirdle2.1.1 DescriptionoftheShoulderGirdle2.1.2 TheFunctionoftheHumanBodyandtheClothingShoulderGirdle2.2 AnthropometricalStudyforClothingApplication2.2.1 SizingSystem-AnthropometricalStudy2.2.2 DevelopmentinAnthropometricMethods2.3 MovementFunctioninClothingComfortandFit2.3.1 HumanBodyMovement2.3.2 DescribingBodyMovement2.3.3 ApplyingDataonBodyMovementtoClothingDesign2.3.4 ClothingComfortandFit2.4 SystemofPatternConstruction2.4.1 Modelling2.4.2 DraftingSystem2.4.3 BlockPatternConstruction2.5 TheFittingProcessandEaseDesign2.5.1 GeneralBackgroundofFitting2.5.2 TypesofFit2.5.3 TheAmountofEase3.Comparisonof3DBodyScanningwithManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures3.1 Introduction3.2 Methodology3.3 TheManualMeasurementMethod3.3.1 ManualMeasurementResults3.3.2 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsofManualMeasurement3.4 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementMethod3.4.1 HighlightLandmarksontheBody3.4.2 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementResult3.4.3 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsof3DMeasurement3.5 ComparisonBetweentheResultof3DBodyScanningandManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures3.6 AnalysisofMeasurementErrors3.7 Summary4.DesignClothingbythePlasterMethod4.1 GeneralBackground4.2 ExperimentalWork4.2.1 PreparingtheExperiment4.2.2 ExperimentProcess4.2.3 ExperimentalResult4.3 ThePlasterCastPattern4.3.1 ThePatternfortheNaturalPosition4.3.2 ComparedthePlasterPatternsofTheseThreePostures4.4 CreationofCADPatternsDerivedfromthePlasterCast4.4.1 AboutCOAT4.14.4.2 CreationofCOATPatternfromPlasterCast4.5 PracticalGarmentDesign4.5.1 PatternDesignforLimitedMovement-BasedontheNaturalPosition4.5.2 PatternDesignforLooseFitBlouse-BasedonLiftl80PlasterCast4.5.3 PatternDesignforaSemi-FittedBlouse-BasedonH180PlasterCast4.5.4 ComparingPatternMeasurementsforDifferentLevelsofFit4.6 TheFabricChoice4.6.1 KESResultsandAnalysis4.6.2 MaterialAnalysisoftheChosenFabric4.7 TheFinishedRealClothes5.TransducerApplicationintheResearch5.1 ConstructionandOperationalPrinciplesofthePressureTransducer5.2 TransducerDesign5.2.1 TheFirstSensor5.2.2 TheSecondSensor5.2.3 TheThirdSensor5.2.4 TheFourthSensor5.3 TheOtherEquipmentRequiredintheExperiment5.4 TransducerCalibration5.5 ChoosingMeasurementPointsontheBody5.6 ExperimentProcedure5.6.1 ResultsforClothesBasedontheNaturalBlock5.6.2 ResultsforClothesBasedontheL180Block5.6.3 ResultsforClothesBasedontheH180Block5.7 AnalysisandConclusionsfromGarmentPressureMeasurements6.SizeSurvey6.1 PurposeofSurvey6.2 SubjectSource6.3 SettingMeasurementItems6.4 AnalysisBasicMeasurementsoftheSurvey6.5 AnalysisParticularMeasurementsoftheSurvey6.5.1 GirthChangeforDifferentPostures6.5.2 LengthDifferencesinDifferentPostures6.6 ClothingSizeSurveyforFittingTest6.6.1 FurtherAnalysisoftheSubjectswithSmallSize6.6.2 SampleSource6.6.3 MeasuringtheClothes6.6.4 AnalysisofEaseinDifferentPartsforDifferentPostures6.7 ComparetheResultsfromPlasterMethodwiththatfromSizeSurvey6.8 OptimisingStyleandDynamicComfortfromSleeveConstruction6.8.1 AddingEasetotheBacktoImproveDynamicComfort6.8.2 AddingAppropriateBackandSleeveWidthforComfort6.8.3 ConcealingthePleat6.8.4 ManipulatingStyle，ProportionandConstructiontoProvideEase6.8.5 TheHemSolutionWhentheArmsAreRaised6.8.6 SettingtheFront-BackPartitionImproveDynamicFreedom6.8.7 DetachableGarmentSegmentsHelptoDetermineBodyExpansion6.9 Summary7.ConclusionsandRecommendationsforFurtherWorkReferencesAppendix1Appendix2Appendix3Appendix4Appendix5Acknowledgement

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